A 99-year-old fashion veteran’s dedication to her craft embodies the expertise and entrepreneurial spirit powering Zhongshan’s thriving textile industry. Iris Muk and Zhou Mo report from Zhongshan.

At a long worktable in a bustling workshop cluttered with bolts of silk, spools of thread and piles of lace trims in Shaxi town, Zhongshan, Mok Sau-jean bends slightly over a half-finished evening gown, her fingers — thin but steady — tracing the edge of a beaded pattern.

It’s a typical day for Mok, who chairs Zhongshan Shijie Fashion Co, as she goes about her daily rounds. Even at 99, she has yet to slow down, arriving at her office on time each morning, checking the designs, talking with sewers, often stopping and putting the finishing touches to the works.

“Some people always ask me why I haven’t retired,” she says, projecting a faint smile. “For me, it’s not just a job. It’s the faith in this craft.”

Mok’s over seven decades of dedication to the clothing manufacturing industry, especially the production of high-end gowns, is a perfect testament to Zhongshan’s thriving growth in the sector.

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The textile industry — one of Zhongshan’s pillar enterprises — has played a significant role in propelling the city’s economic growth over the years. Industry players are primarily concentrated in Shaxi town, where a dense cluster of factories, workshops and supporting enterprises forms a robust production network.

According to official statistics published last year, Shaxi was home to about 14,000 clothing-related market businesses, employing more than 100,000 people.

Over 300 million clothes are produced there every year, accounting for 10 percent of Guangdong province’s total.

Seizing opportunities

Born in 1926, Mok, the daughter of a hat-maker from Hong Kong, has witnessed firsthand the transformation of the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area’s fashion industry.

Starting her business in Hong Kong and having made her first bucket of gold in the city, she relocated her operations to Zhongshan in 1993.

“Opening a factory on the Chinese mainland seemed like a natural step for me at the time,” she recalls, pointing to the mainland’s low labor costs.

The entrepreneur was introduced to Zhongshan by Mark Zhang Zhaoda, a renowned Chinese fashion designer, who told her the city was home to many talented workers skilled in bead embroidery — a significant component of high-end fashion.

Mok was fully aware of the importance of craftspeople in the industry. Her company now has two workshops for its some 20 employees. Mok endeavored to cultivate local talents by introducing them to various boutiques and luxury brands worldwide, emphasizing that fashion designers must grasp more than just clothing — they should also understand shoes, bags and an array of accessories. “Beauty is comprehensive,” she explains.

In addition to talents, Guangdong’s sound industrial chain has laid a solid foundation for her business to flourish in Zhongshan.

“Previously, we had to source a lot of materials from Hong Kong. But now, the entire manufacturing process — from buttons and high-end textiles to logistics — can all be handled in Guangdong,” says Mok.

The competitive edge of the Greater Bay Area lies in its comprehensive ecosystem and access to a vast range of materials that support the fashion industry at every stage. “For designers, it means the freedom to push the boundaries of creativity without being hampered by logistical and material constraints,” she says.

The businesswoman is grateful to have seized the opportunities offered by the nation’s rapid economic development. These opportunities are invaluable to the people of Hong Kong, both in terms of career development and personal growth.

Realigning strategies

The high-end clothing in Mok’s company mainly targets overseas markets, with over 90 percent of its orders coming from Europe.

Experiencing a global economic slowdown and battered by the COVID-19 pandemic, the business is fraught with challenges.

“Our foreign trade orders have gone down by 40 percent in the past few years due to the impact of the (sluggish) global economy and the coronavirus outbreak,” says Li Yongxian, head of design at Zhongshan Shijie Fashion Co. Nevertheless, they still account for up to 90 percent of the company’s orders.

To weather the economic storm, Mok is shifting greater focus from overseas markets to the domestic front, betting big on the nation’s policies to boost consumption, plus a growing affluent population that’s willing and eager to invest in high-end apparel.

The company established its independent brand, Miss Mok, in 2017 and has retailers throughout the country.

“Initially, the techniques and aesthetics that were applied to our international trade offerings failed to resonate with domestic buyers immediately, necessitating improvements,” Li recalls. For instance, while overseas clients might accept snug-fitting dresses, local consumers go for comfort. Chinese women also demand superior fabric quality and craftsmanship, and are less forgiving of any handmade imperfections, unlike many international buyers. Domestic clients often have more delicate skin that’s sensitive to rough fabric textures.

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The workers were dedicated to seeking and incorporating customer feedback over two to three years, refining the techniques and designs to accommodate clients’ needs, says Li.

Despite economic uncertainties and intensifying competition, Mok is committed to staying rooted in the industry.

“Many believe that manufacturing isn’t the most profitable sector in the fashion business. However, what they may not realize is that it offers an unparalleled learning opportunity. By collaborating with established designers worldwide, including those from Italy, France, Germany and the United Kingdom, I’ve acquired their visions and techniques.”

Mok is steadfast in her resolve to work until near the end of her life.

“Work frees you. I often tell young people to find a career they enjoy most. Life does have its ups and downs as unexpected events do happen. But if you keep doing what you love, you’ll never be lonely.”

Contact the writers at irismuk@chinadailyhk.com