Theater company displays collection curated over centuries to share its historic value, Zhang Kun reports.

Crowns symbolizing glory and supreme power, daggers indicating murder and danger, and garments decorated with exotic embroidery are showcased in a new exhibition at L'ECOLE China, School of Jewelry Arts in Shanghai. The exhibition explores the dramatic stories staged at Comedie-Francaise, an esteemed theater company in Paris.

Held from May 1 to Oct 7 at the Twin Villas — a UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage award-winning architectural structure at No 796, Middle Huaihai Road in downtown Shanghai — the exhibition Stage Jewels of the Comedie-Francaise brings French theater history to life through more than 100 stage jewels, documents, and artifacts curated from the 17th to the 20th centuries.

Comedie-Francaise is a renowned theater company in Paris and is recognized as the world's longest-established national theater. It has been at the heart of French theatrical tradition for over three centuries, performing a rich repertoire that blends classical and contemporary works.

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In 2017, Comedie-Francaise approached L'ECOLE, an institution supported by a luxury jewelry house, seeking help with its collection of stage jewelry built over centuries. "We started working with them on their collection from a more historical perspective, documenting each of the objects using technical and restorative techniques," Lise Macdonald, the institution's president, tells China Daily.

"We realized how precious the jewelry is, even though the materials are non-precious. The techniques used, the beauty of the pieces, and their historical value are relevant and important," she says. "On close observation, their designs are impressive. Some of them were inspired by high-end jewelry."

The organizations then decided to hold an exhibition and compile a book after the restoration, conservation, and research of the jewelry collection was complete.

The exhibition enables visitors to discover the fascinating destinies of prominent figures from the French stage: Talma's gilt-metal laurel crown donated by Napoleon, Rachel's jeweled tiaras, the tunic worn by Mounet-Sully in Racine's Athalie, and Sarah Bernhardt's brooch made by Rene Lalique.

It also consists of costumes borrowed from the French National Center for Theatrical Costume and Design.

After the successful exhibition in Paris last year, the organizers decided to present it in Shanghai, with added content for better comprehension for Chinese audiences.

An added introduction explains the historical context of the stage jewelry and the Comedie-Francaise. Posters, tickets, prints, a relief model of the auditorium, and a video of the annual Homage to Moliere (1622-73) ceremony immerse visitors in a 19th-century Paris theater experience.

Also known as Maison de Moliere, the theater commemorates the dramatist's legacy annually. A replica of a marble bust of Moliere sits center stage every Jan 15 to receive tributes from actors and audiences.

Special artifacts connected to Chinese culture have also been added to the Shanghai exhibition, such as an original costume robe used in the play The Orphan of China.

The French play was adapted by writer Voltaire (1694-1778) from the Chinese play The Orphan of Zhao by Ji Junxiang, who is thought to have lived in the 13th century. In his adaptation, Voltaire transposes the action to the Imperial Palace in Peking, and the robe bears witness to a real consideration for authenticity in the choice of silks and Chinese motifs.

The back of the robe of the hero Zamti, played by Pierre-Claude Sarrazin, features embroidery reminiscent of the Chinese character "deng", which means ascension.

According to Louis-Gilles Pairault, archivist and curator of the Library-Museum of the Comedie-Francaise, the Parisian public was so captivated by the tragedy's combination of exoticism and philosophical reflection that it stayed in the company's repertoire until 1833.

A Peking Opera costume worn by its Chinese theater counterpart is displayed next to the French one, creating a vivid cultural dialogue.

Since her first visit to China two years ago, Macdonald has held a strong interest in Peking Opera and Kunqu Opera. A year and a half ago, she and her colleagues at L'ECOLE in China launched a research project on stage jewelry used in Peking Opera.

While research is at the core of its activities, the institution aims to share its outcomes with the public. "Our mission is to look at jewelry culture from different periods and countries. In Shanghai, Hong Kong, Dubai and Paris, we study jewelry to determine their culture and local relevance. Then, we show them to the public in China, and eventually, the world," she says.

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L'ECOLE was founded in Paris in 2012 and now has four permanent locations — Paris, Hong Kong and Shanghai, along with a new site in Dubai.

This exhibition is a special event of the 19th Festival Croisements, which launched in 2006 with the support of the French embassy. It was the first foreign arts festival in China.

The exhibition not only showcases the artistic charm of French stage jewelry but also aims to deepen dialogue and mutual understanding between Chinese and French cultures through the artistic spirit common between the two countries, says Joan Valadou, consul general of France in Shanghai.

Contact the writer at zhangkun@chinadaily.com.cn