Published: 10:03, May 5, 2024
The famous gate to 'hell'
By Otiato Opali in Naivasha, Kenya

Kenya's treasured national park full of natural beauty, steeped in legend

A couple marvel at the majestic cliffs that are found within the Hell's Gate National Park. Due to volcanic activities that formed the park, features like volcanic walls, hot water geysers and hot springs are abundant in the park. (OTIATO OPALI / CHINA DAILY)

For a popular destination for both local and international tourists, the first thing that strikes visitors to Hell's Gate National Park in Kenya's Rift Valley province is its odd name. Many theories have been put forward to try to explain why the picturesque park was named Hell's Gate.

According to local legend, many years ago, a number of Maasai tribesmen were buried alive at the site when nearby Mount Longonot erupted. The Maasai are a seminomadic and pastoral tribe that occupies East African plains stretching from Kenya to Tanzania.

Charles Nkaiseri, a local guide at the park and a member of the Maasai tribe said that after the tragedy, the Maasai came up with the name Enee Meneng'a which was later translated by European settlers as "Hell".

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"The park is situated in a belt rich in volcanic activity and due to powerful volcanic forces, which have shaped the national park from below for centuries, the Maasai felt like evil forces might be responsible for the resultant tragedies," Nkaiseri said.

On the other hand, some oral tales state that the name Hell's Gate was arrived at after Gustav Fischer and Joseph Thompson, two European explorers came up with the name in 1883, which referred to a narrow break in the cliffs that opens up to a clear opening in the plains of the park. According to Nkaiseri, the narrow gorge was once a tributary of a prehistoric lake that fed early humans in the Rift Valley.

However, official records like those held by the UNESCO World Heritage Convention indicate that the name Hell's Gate is derived from the most impressive feature in the park, the Ol Jorowa Gorge, which runs through the middle of the park. The gorge formed the overflow of nearby Lake Naivasha between lower and middle Cambrian times.

A visitor enjoys a bicycle ride on one of the trails in the park. (OTIATO OPALI / CHINA DAILY)

The picturesque nature of the gorge was made internationally famous when it was featured in two world-acclaimed movies. In Tomb Raider 2, the gorge and the caves around it formed the scenes where part of the movie was shot on location. The gorge and the plains around it also inspired the main setting for The Lion King and the movie's animators actually visited the gorge for inspiration.

Situated between Lake Naivasha and the Longonot and Suswa volcanoes, Hell's Gate National Park is the only national park in Kenya that you can explore on foot. Unlike other national parks in Kenya, there are no predators here apart from the occasional leopard sighting. The appeal of this park, which is covered by ashes from the Longonot eruption, occurring more than 100 years ago, comes from the beautiful scenery formed by millions of years of geothermal activity.

Being located about 100 kilometers from Kenya's capital Nairobi, the park is an ideal venue for a day trip from the capital where, in addition to the biodiversity that includes raptors, visitors can enjoy mountain biking, rock climbing and a natural spa.

On the way to Naivasha town where the park is located, visitors from Nairobi can spend part of the less than two-hour journey from Nairobi by car admiring the Rift Valley escarpment.

The panoramic vistas of the Rift Valley at Limuru town viewpoint on your way to Naivasha from Nairobi are a geological wonder, which is nothing short of spectacular. The view from this point offers a glimpse into the Earth's incredible history and formation. Standing at the cliff of the valley, you can appreciate its vast expanse, its dramatic cliffs, and the beauty of the surrounding landscape. It is an ideal spot for nature lovers, photographers, and anyone looking for a deep connection with the Earth's geological wonders.

Visitors to the park can access the volcanic cliffs in the park by vehicles but most prefer cycling or trekking. (OTIATO OPALI / CHINA DAILY)

Numerous activities

Once in Naivasha, the Hell's Gate National Park is located 19 kilometers from the city center on a road that runs parallel to the shores of Lake Naivasha, a high-altitude, freshwater lake with sterling blue waters that host hippos and many other aquatic animals.

For foreign tourists, the entrance fee to the park is $26 for adults and $17 for children.

Once in the park, there are numerous activities visitors can engage in. Just a kilometer from the gate, visitors are met with the majestic Fischer's Tower, a volcanic plug that stands at an impressive 25 meters tall. It was named after German explorer Gustav Fischer, who was trying to find a route from Mombasa to Lake Victoria.

According to Nkaiseri, Maasai folklore states that the tower is a Maasai girl who turned to stone after looking back on her home while on the way to her future husband -contrary to tradition. The location is famous worldwide for rock climbing, walking, hiking, biking, game viewing, bird watching, picnics and camping. The spot has become a popular climbing ground and is particularly suitable for climbing enthusiasts including beginners as all routes on the tower can be completed in one rope length.

The unique ability to freely roam anywhere in the park on foot surrounded by zebras, giraffes and the best of Kenya's plains game in the pristine and unspoiled wilderness is hard to match and that is why Hell's Gate is one of the best hiking spots in the country.

There are several trails in the park to choose from, however, a guide is required and as an expert on the park's landscape, history and wildlife, the guide will only enhance the experience. Good walking shoes, light trousers, binoculars, long sleeves, sunglasses, a hat and plenty of water are a necessity for hikers since the park has little shade and can get very hot.

Carved by a prehistoric lake that once fed the Rift Valley, Hell's Gate's Ol Jorowa Gorge cuts through the park and is one of the many highlights on the walking and cycling trail. Many movie lovers might be aware of the beautiful plains and gorges that feature in the movie The Lion King, but few are aware that they were inspired by the beautiful scenery at Hell's Gate National Park. According to the movie makers, in 1991, some of the film's animators traveled to Hell's Gate National Park in Kenya for research and inspiration for the film.

The park also played host to the movie Tomb Raider 2, which was shot on location in the beautiful gorges, cliffs and rocks which provide the perfect backdrop for many scenes, including the core scenes in the tomb. In the film, Kenya's tribesmen of the Pokot tribe played the role of a mysterious tribe discovered in Africa by the tomb raider Lara Croft. Movie lovers who visit the park can access these locations with the help of a tour guide.

Another unique feature located on the northern tip of Hell's Gate National Park is the Olkaria Geothermal Spa, a series of geothermal pools made possible by the presence of hot water geysers and hot springs.

The water that flows into the geothermal spa is all natural with no treatments or additives and is rich with several natural minerals. To keep the temperatures of the swimming lagoon user-friendly, there are geothermal technicians who are constantly monitoring the lagoon temperatures.

The all-natural spa features beautiful azure blue waters heated by the Earth's geothermal activity, sun loungers, and a restaurant which makes this the perfect spot to relax and recuperate after cycling or hiking in the park.

Owing to the geothermal activities in this area, Kenya is currently developing the largest geothermal plant in the world named Olkaria VI, within Hell's Gate National Park. The East African country is the world's seventh biggest producer of geothermal energy owing to its geography and the geothermal activities in areas like Hell's Gate National Park.

A family visiting the park talk to a tour guide while admiring a group of three rock hyrax animals. (OTIATO OPALI / CHINA DAILY)

Spectacular experience

Maya Bilhana, a keen cyclist and Nepalese tourist, who visited the park said: "Once I got into the park, I was soon so blown away by the scenery that it was easy to forget about the cycling. In fact, being able to cycle alone through these incredible valleys and rock formations, surrounded by animals in a vast and silent landscape was a truly spectacular experience.

"I do not know if I can really explain how it felt to be here. The stillness and the silence were really striking. There were occasional cars and mostly just long, dusty roads and animals quietly watching you while grazing in the distance, and the occasional shriek from an eagle circling the cliffs was the only sound for miles. It was majestic, and magical, and indescribable all at once," the student from Nepal added.

Among the animals abundant in the park are giraffes, elands, hartebeest, buffaloes and other small gazelles and antelopes which are common on the grassy plains. There are also small troops of klipspringer and rock hyrax, both living in rocky areas. The rare Chanler's mountain reedbuck is also present here. According to Nkaiseri, the park counts 103 species of birds and the volcanic cliffs are home and nesting places for birds, which are abundant at Lake Naivasha.

"The large white droppings on the rocks indicate nests of vultures and eagles and augur buzzard. Rare species like the hooded vultures have also been recorded," Nkaiseri said.

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According to the latest tourism performance report released by the Kenya Tourism Board last year, Hell's Gate National Park was the fifth most popular park in the country in 2022 after receiving more than 150,000 annual visitors.

Before embarking on the journey to Hell's Gate National Park, it is important to note that the park can be reached by road from Nairobi or through a short flight from Nairobi's Wilson Airport to Naivasha Airport where guests can then be transferred by road to the park.

The accommodation in Hell's Gate National Park is quite basic, with local tented options that may not suit all visitors. However, there are many wonderful lodges and hotels to fit any international traveler's budget located at the nearby Lake Naivasha.

Game drives in vehicles can be arranged and conducted in the park. However, with few predators in the park, visitors can access bicycles at the park's entrance which can be rented for about $5 per person, a fantastic way to explore the park.

otiato@chinadaily.com.cn