The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
What is fashion? For many, it may conjure images of ready-to-wear ensembles or high-end luxury brands, but for Zeng Yue, it is something deeper — a form of self-expression.
"Fashion is a statement; it's a way of expressing what kind of person I am or what kind of mood I'm currently in," said the 28-year-old graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in the UK.
Zeng's fashion brand, Momonary, made its debut at London Fashion Week last month. She attributes the brand's success to its unique blend of Eastern and Western influences. In fact, some have described Momonary's style as "Eastern Rococo", drawing parallels to the ornate French art movement of the 18th century.
The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
"We do tend to lean toward extreme complexity with bright colors and certain characteristics of the Rococo era, and many of our designs and printing do derive from traditional Chinese clothing and oriental flowers," Zeng explained, reflecting on how her experiences studying in China, Japan, and the UK have shaped her design ethos.
"However, our theme varies each season. For instance, our latest 2024 autumn/winter collection, 'Mappa Mundi', takes inspiration from cartography, resulting in an overall color palette that is more subdued and low in saturation," she added.
I don't believe in assigning genders to clothing ... For me, fashion is all about self-expression. There used to be rigid labels attached to clothing, but recent years have seen a shift toward breaking down these barriers. As long as our customers feel empowered wearing our clothes and expressing themselves, that's all that matters.
Zeng Yue, co-founder of fashion brand Momonary and graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design
Zeng founded the brand along with her partner, Fu Fanding, in 2019, after her graduation. According to her, "momo" is a cute nickname that means "peach" in Japanese while "-nary" carries the undertone of "becoming".
"Peaches can symbolize something mysterious yet charismatic, and they can also represent the youthful and lively image of a girl. These are qualities that we aim to convey through our products," she said.
Zeng hopes that Momonary's clothes are effortless and comfortable to wear, and, more importantly, make people feel good about themselves.
"I hope that when our customers receive clothes from Momonary, they feel confident and excited to go out wearing them. I hope that we can all enjoy the present and the beauty in the world."
Zeng also emphasized the importance of the materials used. "I'm an active person myself and not a big fan of ironing clothes. That's why we tend to opt for lightweight and easy-to-care-for materials," she said. "In our latest collection, we've officially partnered with 3M's Thinsulate, a material we've extensively used in past seasons. Their cotton retains warmth, is not easily deformed, and can be washed in the washing machine."
Zeng explained that she and her partner are in charge of different aspects of the brand. "My partner is more composed and meticulous, so he handles structural design and production details. Since I'm more outgoing and expressive, I take charge of pattern design, branding, and event planning."
In 2020, Zeng curated the brand's first pop-up event in her hometown of Chengdu, Southwest China's Sichuan province.
"Pop-up events provide opportunities for people to directly and visually learn about the brand and the message we're trying to convey," said Zeng. "Many people attended, as such events were relatively novel at that time, and our designs are unique. It was held on a beautiful summer day, and everything fell into place perfectly."
The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
Last year, Zeng also organized several events in London, which were more workshop-oriented compared to previous events. Participants gathered on a large carpet and they were provided with fabrics and materials featuring Momonary's distinctive elements.
"We always encourage our customers to create their own looks with clothes from our brand," Zeng said. "In our workshop events, we really emphasize this DIY aspect, urging them to get hands-on with our materials. It's truly amazing to see what some have created — from ties to small handbags."
Zeng oversees the design of prints, and she draws inspiration from everyday observations and experiences. "Inspiration doesn't come in a split second; more often, it emerges from what I've been researching or reading about lately," she said.
The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
While Momonary markets itself as women's clothing, Zeng has recently noticed an increase in male customers, who she believes have been pulling off their Momonary outfits with style.
"I don't believe in assigning genders to clothing," Zeng stated firmly. "For me, fashion is all about self-expression. There used to be rigid labels attached to clothing, but recent years have seen a shift toward breaking down these barriers. As long as our customers feel empowered wearing our clothes and expressing themselves, that's all that matters."
Zeng attributes her open-mindedness about fashion to her hometown. "In Chengdu, it's easy to be yourself. You can dress however you like, and people won't judge you — at most, they might just be a little curious about your outfit."
The style of Zeng Yue's fashion brand, Momonary, is dubbed "Eastern Rococo" for its ornate design. (PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)
As Momonary approaches its fifth anniversary later this year, Zeng reflects on what has been the driving force throughout her journey. She acknowledges that her passion for fashion design and the sense of accomplishment from completing each project have been her biggest motivators.
However, she remains pragmatic about the business aspect of the industry."To me, fashion design is more than just creativity — it's also about understanding that fashion is a business," she explained. "While it's a field where you can express yourself, it still requires hard work and dedication to turn your dreams into reality."
Regarding Momonary's participation in London Fashion Week, Zeng sees it as a mutual selection process. "When we were students, we used to idolize the "Big Four" fashion weeks. However, now with more experience, we've come to realize that these events are just platforms. What truly matters is the clothes we've crafted," she said. "We chose to apply for London Fashion Week because it embraces edginess and celebrates creativity, which perfectly resonates with the essence of Momonary."
