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Thursday, February 25, 2016, 16:45

Gucci, Roberto Cavalli headline Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week

By Associated Press

Some highlights from Wednesday's shows:

GUCCI CHANGE

Alessandro Michele's latest Gucci collection opened like a box of confections, full of frothy surprises.

In the year-plus since he took over as creative director, Michele has made pretty and frilly centerpieces of the Gucci wardrobe, with Nicole Kidman and Julianne Moore among those spotted on red carpets in Michele's more romantic creations.

In this collection, long diaphanous dresses flowed from an embroidered silk asymmetrical off-the-shoulder bodice or finished in a boa rainbow. Ruffles were no longer only an accoutrement but the very architecture of the looks, from a tiered black ruffle and lace number with Michele's trademark snake winding up the neckline, to a layered red ruffled cape.

One dress exemplified Michele's aesthetic: a sheer aqua gown with puffy, princess sleeves and golden belt that had its femininity toughened with athletic wear accents: a panther sequin logo on the bodice and No. 25 on the back.

Ultra-feminine pink and aquamarine created the air of a 1950s housewife out on the town in some of the softer looks, including a mini-length furry coat, while architecturally puffed shoulders updated jackets from the Gucci trench to a leather bomber with an edgier feel.

Amid all that eclecticism, guided by what Michele described in notes as "a principle of connection and heterogeneity," perhaps most surprising was the more prominent return of some old standards, including the double GG logo, albeit in nonstandard apparitions like baby blue, the horse-bit print on a day skirt, and pretty suits with contrasting lapels or cuffed trousers.

In a sign of the times, private security with sniffer dogs checked out guests arriving at the Gucci venue in a disused customs railway depot.

Gucci, Roberto Cavalli headline Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week
A model wears a creation for Gucci women's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Feb 24, 2016. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Gucci, Roberto Cavalli headline Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week
A model wears a creation for Gucci women's Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Feb 24, 2016. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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